MER5765RAS Maytag Range - Instructions

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Remove door
Remove front cover of door
Remove hinge screws
Put back together.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

The first time is always the hardest. I took out the bottom cover that had 2 screws saw the broken element took out 3 screws to the emement. I then pulled out the stove unpluged it from the wall and took off the back panels several screws and found the element connected to the wires I marked the wires left & right and disconected them. I reversed proceedure to install the new element. The oven still won't go over 250 degrees I think when the element blew it to the circuit board with it.

Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Can of Corn fix! Remove the two screws in the element cover plate (they're in the back- left/right corners). Remove the two screws that hold the element in place. Pull out the two prong ends of the plug in portion and hold the black / white leads so they do not fall back in behind the unit. Plug in new element (it only goes one way). Screw everything in and test. Place cover plate on after test. Like I said ... a "Can of Corn" fix!

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

ordered new broiler pan

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.