LLR1415AJS Maytag Range - Instructions

Took off oven door. Took out oven racks. Took out bottom oven cover above igniter. Igniter is held in by 2 screws,took them out with a small socket. Went to back of stove and unhooked white plug in - (part of igniter) Thats it. About as easy as it gets. Just reversed the process putting in the new one. Took about 25 minutes. It would have taken less time but I had a problem with one of the screws. Probably from the heat. The oven is 9 years old.

Shut off power, pulled oven out, shut off gas, removed racks and bottom cover. Two bolts held the igniter on, remove those and feed the electrical connector plug through the back of the oven and replace igniter. Be sure the bolts are not too rusty as one if them sheared off and I had use a pair of side cutters to hold the screw while I removed the broken section of the screw.

I replaced the igniter.

I turned off the gas supply and unplugged the power source first. Then I removed the old igniter, by removing the plug wire clip from the back of the stove. I then removed the oven door by simply sliding it up and off the track. Once the oven door was removed I could easily access the igniter after removing the heat shield at the bottom of the stove. I had to remove two screws that mount the igniter. I had a little problem removing one screw, because it was stripped, so I had to use my Dremel tool to cut off the screw. Once it was removed the igniter was easily replaced with the new one. My wife and I was really excited that the fix worked! Saved me hundreds of dollars. Money I used for the holidays. Thanks Part Select!

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

unplugged range took the oven racks out removed bottom plate, removed 2 screws from the igniter, wiggled the connector out of the hole, unplugged the connector. reconnected the connector reattached the igniter and put the plate and racks back in plugged the range in and it works just like it should. took about 15 mins. easier than I expected.

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.

Removing the oven door by partly opening it and pulling it up out of the hinge made access to the igniter much easier. Access to the igniter was easy. Just remove the baking shelves and lift out the bottom panel. I removed the two screws holding the old igniter. One screw was difficult to remove because of oxidation, and required some tinkering as the threads were stripped. But once the screws were removed, the igniter was easy to replace and connect to the gas controller with a simple plugin connection.

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

First off...there are 2 possible oven igniters for this model, and you must determine which one you have. Remove racks from oven.Remove oven door. There are 2 latches(tabs) on the oven side of the hinge.Pull these forward and down. Close the door approx. half way and it will lift straight up. Carefully lay the door aside.There are 2 Phillips head screws at the rear of the pan. They are steel, and may be rusted in place. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of the screw. Then I used a straight blade screwdriver with a pair of pliers on the shaft to assist removing the screws.The oven pan lifts up at the rear to remove.Use a nut driver to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter. Mine were stripped.They use a machine thread in light gauge sheet metal. Then use an air ratchet to put them in. Take a trip to the big box store and get some short stainless sheet metal screws to replace the damaged screws.Pull the wire through the insulation, unplug the old igniter and plug the new one in. Fish the plug and wire back through the insulation. Attach the new igniter with the new screws. Replace the pan with new screws, and reverse the procedure to install the door. Even with the purchase of the Dremel, you will still save a chunk of cash, and you get a tool for the arsenal. It's rare when you don't encounter some problems, with any job. The secret is not burying yourself with more problems you create.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!