PER5750QCW Maytag Range - Instructions

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

unplugged oven from wall. Removed screws holding the inside element cover. Then removed the screws holding the element in place. disconnected wire from element. plug in new element and reinstall all screws and covers in reverse order. If wire to element pull throug back of oven, remove rear cover to expose all electrial connections. With new element screwed in place you can plug it in from the back. Reinstall rear cover. Plug in oven and test.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Purchased new bake element from PartsSelect. Very easy to install, unplug range, remove 6 screws, slide element out and unplug end, remove old element. Reverse procedure to install new element. My range was about 6 years old and in excellent condition, was considering buying a new range. Found PartsSelect on-line and ordered new element. Their website is very easy to use and find correct parts.
Saved lots of dollars, this PartsSelect website and service is great.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

First I removed the screw behind the stove that hides the electrical wires. Pull off the two wires connecting the bake element with pliers. Unscrew the two screws holding down the floor pan which covers the baking element and pull out the floor pan. Here you will see the baking element, it is attached with a few screws. Remove the baking element and attach the new the same way.
We could not believe how easy this repair was to do. Not to mention all the money we saved on a repair man.
Thank you partselect.com, I'm glad I researched this on the net.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

My grandson, age 15 did the replacement. Now, how easy is that!

Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!

After removing element cover off with Phillips screw driver, found a little screw in bottom of oven. Couldn't find where that came from. Removed two screws from element bracket from floor of oven and one holding in the back wall. Most difficult was pulling the old element out of the electrical clamps and hoping the wire would not pop back into the insulation/ and replacing with the new bracket. That is where my hemostat came handy as pliers were too big and the hemostats stabilized the connection without it popping back into the oven. What was really astonishing was the new element and floor bracket DID NOT line up with the screw holes in the bottom of the oven. Could not adjust/move bracket as some of the element was "clawed?" on the bracket and feared I would damage it. Thus I now have two extra screws along with the one found on floor of the oven. Replaced cover and it currently heats nicely.