MES5875BCW Maytag Range - Instructions

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

After the repair I determined that the door did not need to be removed from the stove. The top 3 screws needed to be taken out, the front clase needed to be slid out by pushing it right to left or left to right. Then the bracket that held the inside screw assembly needed to be removed. The new handle needed to be installed and the bracets put back into place. The front glass needed to be reinstalled right to left or left to right. The hardest part of my install was putting door back on the range, the hinges kept popping out of place before setting into the range. The best way to replace the hangle would be to not remove the door from the range.

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

For the Ikea Range isg650ws01, the repair was very easy.

Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines

Step 2) Unplug the range

Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove the panel.

Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord

Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

un-plug device from outlet for safety first and then remover all top panel after screws lower two side small screws. actually is not selector problem. It was burner switch problem for 6 inches element.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!