MGS5870ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

Remove the oven racks. Slide the two catches, located at each rear corner of the oven bottom, toward the front of the oven.

Lift the rear edge of the oven bottom slightly, then slide it back until the front edge of the oven bottom clears the oven front frame. Remove oven bottom from oven.

Pulled storage drawer out to the first stop position. Lift up front of drawer and pull to the second stop position.
Grasp sides and lift up and out.

Under storage area, I removed two screws to remove a steel plate. In the oven, I removed two screws that held on the Oven Igniter. Unplugged the Igniter under the storage area.

Plugged in the new Oven Igniter, replace the two screws that held the Oven Igniter, replace the two screws for the steel plate. Put the storage drawer back, the bottom of the oven back and the racks.

It was easier than I though it would be.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

The repair was easy. Partselect processed my order quickly and my part was delivered sooner than I expected.

Removing the old igniter was simple. I took off the oven door to create easy access to the oven. I then unplugged the connection and removed the screws that held the older igniter in place. Installing the new igniter was almost as easy. I followed the same steps as above, but in reverse. I accidentally dropped one of the screws, so installation probably took 1 minute longer than removal. :)

I'm a very satisfied customer.

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

Removed (6) screws to remove outer glass door. Note: the door handle has to be removed before removing outer glass door complety as the upper edge of the outer glass door fits in a slot in the door handle. Removed (4) screws to remove door handle. Removed (8) screws to remove door baffle with glass pane. Removed frame that holds (2) glass panes. Bent up tab on frame to remove the cracked pane. Cleaned all removed glass panes with glass cleaner including the new glass pane. Installed the new glass pane into frame and bent down tab on frame. Making sure the insulation was still in place I re-installed all parts in the order they were removed. The complete job took about 45 minutes. The drip pan kit fits perfect.

I removed the screws from the top of the door, the sides and the bottom of the door. I still couldn't get the door to come apart because there were screws on the inside. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out that I had to slide the glass plate off the front of the door to get at the screws on the inside. Once that was done, I was able to replace the handle without problem. The only other thing is that I cut the top of my index finger while trying to clean the door before I put it back together. I was careful to keep track of which screws went where because otherwise it would get confusing. My handle looks and works great! Thanks

removed 5 trim screws from the perimeter of oven door, inserted new glass, reinstalled - done!

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

Lifted off the door, unscrewed all sides of the door attached the handle to the new trim, and screwed everything back together. It at first was not obvious how to remove the old trim, but the trick was to unscrew all sides of the door (bottom, top and on each side). The door just lifts right off easily. Then you unscrew the old trim and screw in the new trim (be sure to attache the handle first!), and then reinstall the sides and front glass by sliding into place and put back all the screws.

Then slide back on the repaired door.

First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws would result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T