MGR5754QDW Maytag Range - Instructions

I searched on-line to find that PartSelect had the easiest site to navigate and find the correct replacement knob for our 6 year old appliance. I placed the order and 36 hours later the part was in my mailbox. It fit the range perfectly and matched the other knobs exactly! Although the shipping cost was high for such a small and lightweight part, I was glad to have found the piece I was looking for. Thank you for this service!

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

The ignitor heated up and the broiler worked but not the bake mode. Repaired per instructions

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

Husband did repair. He removed the
the ignitor. Was a little difficult to remove. I couldn't tell you what he did and in what order.

After the repair I determined that the door did not need to be removed from the stove. The top 3 screws needed to be taken out, the front clase needed to be slid out by pushing it right to left or left to right. Then the bracket that held the inside screw assembly needed to be removed. The new handle needed to be installed and the bracets put back into place. The front glass needed to be reinstalled right to left or left to right. The hardest part of my install was putting door back on the range, the hinges kept popping out of place before setting into the range. The best way to replace the hangle would be to not remove the door from the range.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

The part fit perfectly.Ther repair was logic. The door was of course heavy . I needed an extra hand.
I would have appreciated of instructions were included with the part. Also a web link on how to do it would alos have helped greatly

I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!

same as taking out old part and i misdiagnosed the problem ordered wrong part first and parts select steered me ito the correct part thank you

Removed oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. Pulled out racks and removed bottom of oven. Unscrewed wingnut and removed burner shield. Removed 2 screws that hold igniter and unplugged the connection. Reverse the procedure to put it all back together.
Be patient, it takes a few moments for it to begin heating when you first turn it on.
So easy a woman can do it ! I know,(I am one).

Remove door
Remove front cover of door
Remove hinge screws
Put back together.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.