CNG2010BAL Maytag Range - Instructions

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

My oven would no longer ignite, and I asked a friend to help me see if we could fix it. We found an appliance repair manual online (www.appliancerepair.net), and it described that the most likely part needing replacement was the ceramic igniter - they do wear out, and my oven was - after all - over 20 yrs old, with never a repair! Then, somehow I found this PartSelect website, and after entering the make and model number, it showed the part, with a drawing, and dimensions - enough for me to be convinced it was the right part. I called and was reassured that if it were not the right part, it would be easy to return / refund. So, I ordered the part, standard shipping .... and to my great surprise, it was delivered the VERY NEXT DAY to my front door! And this was right before Christmas, a very busy time! The oven works like a charm now..... (I also had to clean out some of the gas holes, which can build up residues over time.) This repair cost less than $50, I'm sure if an appliance repair person came out it would have been more like $200 - not worth it for an oven this old. So, I'm happy with PartSelect!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I
attached the new element with the two new screws and connected the two wires and then I turned the oven on and had heat immediately. It's real simple to do..this makes the third time that I have installed this particular part but my Magic Chef wall oven will soon be 20 yrs old. Thank you for making do-it-yourself so easy!!!

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

I am a novice at this, so before I did anything I researched this site and made sure to read the installation directions that came with the part.

First I removed the oven racks, the bottom cover (one screw in front and two back latches by moving them towards me) and the fire cover underneath that. Next I disconnected the electrical plug in the back.
Then I removed the defective part by unscrewing 2 back panel screws and 1 on the side of the igniter itself. Now, in connecting the new igniter I cut the connector off of the old one and wire nut connected it to the new one. I did check the connectors and cleaned them by simply plugging/ unplugging them a few times.
Next, The trickiest thing about installing the new igniter was pushing the wires all the way to the back of the oven. I took care and time in this to insure that the connection was well insulated from the heat and then plugged the hole with the insulation material supplied. Next I recconected the fire cover and turned it on. Worked great! Put everything back together, plugged it in and Voila! Like new.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

put it on, perfect

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

Removed oven door, bottom, bottom of broiler and back metal shield. Just unscrew old igniter and unplug wires and install in one. No problems.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Based on user comments it seemed like my problem was being caused by a faulty igniter. I didn't do any voltage or continuity checks like some of the other comments said, although that route was provide a definite yes or no regarding the cause. For instructions, just watch the video. They are dead on. The screws holding your igniter onto the burner assembly may be stripped so you might have to buy replacements or use spares. I replaced the factory sheet metal screws with 10-24 machine screws, nuts, and washers I had laying around the house. After reassmebly, I tested the oven and it lit right up and stayed burning until it reached temperature. My wife baked a test batch of cookies the next day and they were delicious.

Followed the excellent instructions on your web site. I removed the oven burner assembly to make it easier to install the new igniter. The connector on the new igniter matched the one in my oven exactly. It helps to have the oven light on!