MER5755AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!

-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs

Unscrewed two Phillips screws holding the element in the back of the oven, pulled out the element and the leads, disconnected the wires, removed element from oven and reversed the process to install new one. One most important and critical maneuver - the element is connected to the hot wire on the left side and the switch shuts off the element by disconnecting electrical flow to the neutral side of the power so its not enough to just have the oven turned off - makes one heck of a spark when the wire touches the stove panel when you pull the wire through the hole (220 at 60 amps).

Turned off power to oven. Removed screws from each side of element. Removed connectors to disconnect old element. Connected new element to connectors. Replaced screws, then turned on power to oven. Turned on oven to heat. Easy install.

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Thanks to a previous poster who confirmed the need to remove ALL the screws around the door frame. I had removed the door (by opening it slightly and pulling it up off the hinges) then removed the screws all the way around the outside of the door. Once I could separate the front of the door from the back, I removed the remaining screws securing the plastic trim to the top of the door. While waiting for the part to arrive, I cleaned the interior of the door. The part fit exactly and the replacement was easy after attaching the handle to the front of the trim...with one small problem. Two of the screw holes along the top of the door were too large for the factory screws. I still have to make a hardware run and pick up slightly larger sheet metal screws with pan heads and some white touch-up paint. Then we'll be good to go!

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place