ALR1420BDQ Maytag Range - Instructions

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.

Replace the racks. No special instructions.

Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

I took pliers to get the old one off, and popped the new one back in its place, and it fit perfect.

Used pliers to remove clips and old seal. Snap in new seal. DONE! Less than 5 mins.

Removed the original rack. Checked dimensions, installed the new rack.

Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

Very easy install. Works great.

Unplugged the Rang. Removed the oven door. Removed the lower cover for the Bottom heater. Removed the two screws that held the igniter to the burner. Went to back of oven to disconnect the igniter. removed the old igniter. Installed the new Igniter in the reverse order.

I removed the floor of the oven (one screw) and the heat dispersal shield (one wing nut). Then I detached the old igniter using a socket set. I had to remove the bottom drawer to unplug the ignitor and plug in the new one. Then I reassembled. Total piece of cake and I have no experience whatsoever.

Nothing to it - remove oven bottom, and burner cover, unscrew the 2 scews holding the igniter
(one of mine sheared off now only one is holding the new igniter in - it still works) unplug wire at the connector then reverse and the oven is as good as new. The best part is that I received my part in only 2 days.

The oven was inconsistanty lighting and I could not predict when it would. After reading some repair reviews I determined that the problem was most likely the igniter. I purchased one from your site and it arrived the next day. Awsome! Had to take out six screws to get to the wiring and removed the igniter. The wiring was a simple plug. Replaced the igniter in about 20 minutes and the oven has been working flawless every since. THANKS!