MGR5750BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

all i did was twist the burner counter-clockwise unplug 2 wires and installed the new ones, real easy, it took me about 7-8 minutes for the 4 burners, that was all, our stove is working like new now, albert

Simply remove the box containing the two right burners. Access the igniter by removing about 8 screws and pull the coupler for the igniter off with a pair of needel nose pliers. Replace with new igniter using the same tool. Re-assemble the box by screwing in the screws and give it a try. Worked great. Once slight hitch, be sure you don't leave a second screw driving in the box. As it will raddle. So I had to remove and reassemble twice. I'm not a surgeon! Thanks for the fast delivery!

turned burner counterclockwise and removed it reversed procedure and installed new one..

To better access the bottom screws, I removed the door by opening it to the first open position and lifting it up off the hinges. No tools are needed for this but careful, the door IS heavy! Place on table or counter top. Remove the Phillips screws, old trim, and clean the outside of door. Position new trim and replace with the new screws provided. By securing the new trim, I did not have to worry about the glass sliding out when flipping the door to clean the inside. Finish by sliding the door back on the hinges. Looks like brand new!

Side Notes: One of the side pieces of the trim was fairly bent when received. Since the misshapen piece was nicely painted i.e. parted when bent, this was a Maytag (Whirlpool) supplier issue and NOT a PartSelect issue. Rather then damaging the paint bending this piece back to fit the door, I reused the old side piece which was in great shape.

Thanks PartSelect , you're the best!

1. Grab the old burner and twist counter-clockwise. 2. Unplug the wire from the old igniter, simply pull off. 3. Take new burner/igniter (this new one comes all-in-one) and reattach the wire to the igniter underneath. 4. Place the burner so the 'nubs' line up with the stove top and then twist clockwise a short amount, it should turn slightly to lock in place. 5. Test. Mine sparked and started better than it has since i have had the stove

Note the position of the electrode on the side of the old burner cap. Turn the old burner cap one-eighth turn counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Raise the burner cap and disconnect the push-on connector wires from the ground and electrode. Clean the surface and connect the electrode and ground connector wires correctly to the new burner cap and place the burner cap back in the opening, positioning the electrode at the same orientation as it was with the old burner cap. Turn the cap one-eighth turn clockwise until the burner is snug. Turn on the burner control to test that the burner functions correctly. Make sure there is no smell of propane or gas when the burner is not in use which might indicate that the burner is not properly fitted snugly.

The repair was a no brainer - twist to release the old burner - disconnect the spark wires. connect the spark wires on the new unit - drop it in and twist to lock - about 2 minute job

I used a pipe wrench to turn the old burner off and removed the crumbling washer underneath- no need to replace this. I took off the 2 wires, crimped them onto the new burner, twisted it back into place and presto- all fixed!

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

Very simple! Unscrewed the burner heads with a simple twist, unplugged the two wires from the old head, plugged them into the new one, then screwed that back in. The flames are MUCH better - more efficient and safe. thank you! ( Only issue was when we ordered we didn't see a choice of color and the new ones are different, but it really doesn't matter on an older stove anyway.)

replaced heat sensor

First I removed the old burner head by twisting it counter clockwise by using wide channel lock pliers. When It completely came off, the burner head had deteriorated so much that it almost came apart. When I took off the 2 wires from the burner head it also easily came apart. The burner-head was in really bad condition. I cleaned the whole area and connected the 2 wires to the new burner head and hand tightened in a clokwise direcrtion. It took 20 minutes to install.

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back.
Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.