MER6555AAB Maytag Range - Instructions

Our Maytag electric range has a small oven on top that doubles as a toaster, and food warmer. The lower one is a big oven suitable for Thanksgiving Turkey Etc. It is also a broiler as is the top oven. The top one had the bottom element burn out about 5 months back as well. Now the bottom element on the lower oven had burned out as well. The oven has some age on it, but when I looked to replace it I saw it would be approx $1800.00 - $2000.00 for a new one. I knew the elements were replacable and thought if I should call out the lonely guy, the Maytag repairman. Nope, I pulled the stove out disconnected the 220 power supply. I got the Model number off the back stamped info plate. I looked up Maytags parts on Google and the first one was PartSelect.com. They have easy fill-in spaces for Model and Make and a schematic of the oven and all it's pieces are visually displayed. I found the part I needed and ordered. It arrived in two days, very reasonable, very fast shipping. Pulling out the old elements required only a battery operated screw driver, a flash light, and a magnetic dish to keep track of the screws.The removal of the rear panel takes about 10 sheet metal screws. I marked the leads I disconnected by color with a felt tip pen on the back. I disconnected and removed the aforementioned clips, cleaned inside the oven and placed the new element in, reconnected everything on the back as it had been according to my color assignments, replaced the back with battery operated screwdriver from the magnetic dish, reconnected the 220V power supply. Done, in about 30 minutes; I saved a bunch over a new Stove and at least a couple hundred over a service call. Easy and satisfying.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

turn off all electric to the wall oven. removed the old broiler. replaced the new broiler and turned on the electric. checked the brolier one to see if it worked....it did thanks for the customer service for her help in finding the replacement part.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Real easy, I removed the two screws holding the element in place, then pulled the element out a few inches to reveal the wire connectors. pulled the connectors from the old element and then replaced with the new one and screwed it back into place and presto! All done and cooking again. The replacement part came in 2 days fast and reliable. Thanks PartSelect.com

Ordered the part from your company. It arrived promptly. Gave to to my two sons 22 & 29. They fixed it.

Very easy........................................

Turned OFF the circuit breaker. Unscrewed the old and screwed in the new. Very easy. There were helpful hints from other people on the web site, ie. turn off the circuit breaker first.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.

I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)

A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.