MES5775BCW Maytag Range - Instructions

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

un-plug device from outlet for safety first and then remover all top panel after screws lower two side small screws. actually is not selector problem. It was burner switch problem for 6 inches element.

We contacted Parts Select for the JennAir factory Trim Kit. When we recieved it we found that the brackets used for the trim kit held the trim pice out with still about a 3/8 inch gap. The supplied brackets were about 3/4-7/8 in depth. So I built a jig from a 1ftx 2inx6in board, placed a 3/8 in square stock of steel, sliped the bracket under the steel and secured the steel to the board with 3/4 inch electr4ical staples. I then secured the bracket to the board using two wood screws. By this time the bracket was securily fastened around the 3/8 steel and to the board. I then took a hammer and beat the bracket until it was formed around the steel and the bracket had a new depth of 3/ inch. I then mesured the holes and center punched them in their original relative positions, drilled new 1/8 inch holes, and installed the new repaired brakets to the JennAir range. This all worked very well, though I will say it is imperitive that youmark the new screw holes very acuratly and use a center punch before drilling.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Determined that there was power with meter. Removed front panal and top and found schematic and began to trace power and continnuity and forund that the high limit, infinite switch was bad. Later learned thet a very large blanket was placed in dryer more that likley causing the overheat of the limit switch. Also made a point to clean any and all lint from dryer and vent pipes.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...