MERH865RAW13 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Purchased new bake element from PartsSelect. Very easy to install, unplug range, remove 6 screws, slide element out and unplug end, remove old element. Reverse procedure to install new element. My range was about 6 years old and in excellent condition, was considering buying a new range. Found PartsSelect on-line and ordered new element. Their website is very easy to use and find correct parts.
Saved lots of dollars, this PartsSelect website and service is great.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

First I removed the screw behind the stove that hides the electrical wires. Pull off the two wires connecting the bake element with pliers. Unscrew the two screws holding down the floor pan which covers the baking element and pull out the floor pan. Here you will see the baking element, it is attached with a few screws. Remove the baking element and attach the new the same way.
We could not believe how easy this repair was to do. Not to mention all the money we saved on a repair man.
Thank you partselect.com, I'm glad I researched this on the net.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

My grandson, age 15 did the replacement. Now, how easy is that!

Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

After removing element cover off with Phillips screw driver, found a little screw in bottom of oven. Couldn't find where that came from. Removed two screws from element bracket from floor of oven and one holding in the back wall. Most difficult was pulling the old element out of the electrical clamps and hoping the wire would not pop back into the insulation/ and replacing with the new bracket. That is where my hemostat came handy as pliers were too big and the hemostats stabilized the connection without it popping back into the oven. What was really astonishing was the new element and floor bracket DID NOT line up with the screw holes in the bottom of the oven. Could not adjust/move bracket as some of the element was "clawed?" on the bracket and feared I would damage it. Thus I now have two extra screws along with the one found on floor of the oven. Replaced cover and it currently heats nicely.

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.