MER6775ACS Maytag Range - Instructions

I pulled the range away from the wall to gain access to the back.I turned off the power to the range at the circuit breaker panel. I unscrewed all little screws on top of back plate then removed it carefully.I took several pictures on the connections to the ECR board.I watched a video on You Tube which was helpful.The difficulty was getting the connectors off without breaking them. By carefully putting the edge of the flat blade screwdriver under each connector and twisting it gently I was able to get this little plastic locking pin to let go.Once this pin unlocked I was able to remove the connector from the prongs on the range. After removing the ECR board I carefully removed the decal from the front of the old board by pushing the edge of a sharp putty knife slowly under the decal. Following the pictures I took I was able to connect the new ECR board connectors properly and re-assemble the board into the top of the range after attaching the decal being careful to line it up properly.Once the range was back against the wall I turned on the power and set the clock then proceeded to test the small top oven which now worked fine.I found the people at at this stie to be very knowledgeable about what parts are needed to fix common problems.

I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.

Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I removed the two small screws, gently pulled the element outward, slid the wire connectors off the ends of the element legs and reversed the process to install the new one. THE ELEMENT STILL DOES NOT HEAT. There must be a bad switch or thermostat at the ON switch area. That will be checked out by a Repair man as soon as I can get a schedule from him.

Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.

Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.

Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.

Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.

The oven has been working great!

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.

As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!

Turned off breaker to oven, removed racks, unscrewed the plate holding the element in place, and pulled out the wires a few inches. All easy and fine to this point. Never having done anything like this before, I wasn't sure HOW the element was attached to the wires, so tugged on them a bit, but nothing budged. Got a flashlight (it got dark in there with the upper part of my body in there)looked again, but still couldn't tell. Referred to this site and saw reports of "plug and play", went back and examined the ends more closely on old and new element, realized that they slide straight on and straight off in a "sleeve". Got some pliars and pulled the ends apart. Slid the new end on to one wire, but couldn't get the other one on until I realized I had crushed it a bit with the pliars. Reopened the "sleeve" with a vegetable knife and slid the other end of the element into the "sleeve" at the end of the wire. Then pushed the wires back in and screwed plate on. It took about 23 minutes, and that included time to look up this site and do some reading, jump up to find a flashlight, and jump up and find a pair of pliars. My hubby was out of town for 3 weeks and suggested I wait til he got home--glad I didn't wait.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!