MER6871AAQ Maytag Range - Instructions

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

Removed 2 screws under the front edge, pulled top forward just enough to unplug wiring harness. Turned top upside down and transferred burners to new top. Reversed the procedure to install. Very easy!

Ordered the part from your company. It arrived promptly. Gave to to my two sons 22 & 29. They fixed it.

Very easy........................................

Turned OFF the circuit breaker. Unscrewed the old and screwed in the new. Very easy. There were helpful hints from other people on the web site, ie. turn off the circuit breaker first.

Real easy, I removed the two screws holding the element in place, then pulled the element out a few inches to reveal the wire connectors. pulled the connectors from the old element and then replaced with the new one and screwed it back into place and presto! All done and cooking again. The replacement part came in 2 days fast and reliable. Thanks PartSelect.com

1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

Removed two screws bottom front corners of range top - propped the top up - removed the wires from the element - removed the old element - installed the new element reattached the wiring reattached the hold down screws and bingo it worked!

First thing to do is turn the 220volt electrical circuit breaker to the unit off and the last thing is to turn the breaker back on!

Put a new one in.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Easier than making a pie! Unscrewed 4 screws and detached the element from the back of the small upper oven. Connected the new element and put the 4 screws back in place. We saved $129 service fee by doing this ourselves not to mention the markup on parts. Shipping was very quick! While I hope to not have to do this again...I would do it again in a split second!

I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

Removed two retaining screws and pulled out coil. one terminal came off readily but one remained and was difficult to get off. Pulled range out from wall and removed cover plate and removed existing terminal connection. Pushed new coil into oven openings and screwed in. Slide terminals on in the rear of range and replaced cover plate. Took about 1/2 hour because I was nervous.