MGR5745ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

Lifted off the door, unscrewed all sides of the door attached the handle to the new trim, and screwed everything back together. It at first was not obvious how to remove the old trim, but the trick was to unscrew all sides of the door (bottom, top and on each side). The door just lifts right off easily. Then you unscrew the old trim and screw in the new trim (be sure to attache the handle first!), and then reinstall the sides and front glass by sliding into place and put back all the screws.

Then slide back on the repaired door.

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.

Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

0. Throw oven circuit breaker 1. Open oven door and slide/lift door off of hinge posts 2. Remove oven drawer 3. Slide oven out from between cabinets and turn so that the back is accessible. 4. remove Phillips screws holding the cover-rear and side panel to the stove. Note which screws have pan heads and which are hex head. 5. remove stove elements and pans 6. Raise stove Top Assembly and release ceramic element sockets from their clips. 7. Push the supports for the Top Assembly fornt and back to release them from their sockets so that the Top Assembly can be lifted to near vertical. 8. Remove the hex head screw holding the Control Panel End Cap to the side panel. (Steps 5-7 might be avoided if you have a small socket wrench that can get to this screw without removing the elements.) 9. Remove the other screws holding the top of the side panel to the "Box Burner" pan that sits under the Top Assembly. 10. Pull side panel slightly away from the oven and lift it to disconnect it from the posts that hold the side panel to the front of the oven. 11. Remove the two screws on the front of the oven that hold the hing mechanism. 12. tilt and remove the hinge. 13. Open the replacement hinge so that it can fit through the hinge opening in the front of the oven. 14. Reassemble.

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!