ESF34002WG (P1130955N W) Maytag Range - Instructions

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part!

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

The repair went real easy. Turned off power, unscrewed two screws at back of oven and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected two wires to new broiler element and remounted the new one with the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and had a steak cooking in no time.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

just plugged it in!

Removed screws holding rear cover, removed cover. Male connector on Broil Element had rusted off and caused wire to fall onto the frame of the range, shorting it out.

Removed element by disconnecting other wire and removing the single Phillips head screw accessible from inside the oven. Released the element from the two hooks towards the front of the oven near the door and removed.

The wire to the element that burned off had a high temperature female push on connector that I did not have on hand. I had a high temp ring connector so I drilled one of the male connectors on the new element so I could use a small stainless screw and nut which I had to hold the ring terminal on.

After crimping the new connector on I fastened it to the element, connected the other wire and put the rear cover back.

Good to go now!

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Shut off power to the oven.
Unscrewed the old broiler element, unplugged it.
plugged in new one, screwed it in.
Turned on the power. Voila!