CRE9800DDE Maytag Range - Instructions

With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Ordered element and recieved in two days(yea). Removed back cover from unit. Removed two wire slide on wire clips. Then went inside oven cavity and removed two screws holding element intact. The element slid out. Installed element, re-installed two screws to hold element intact. Attached wire clips back on to element, re-attached back cover. Plugged unit back in and it worked perfectly. Eazy-peezy lemon squeezy.

John
Johnny on the Spot Home Repairs
Fishers, Indiana 317-997-3600

Very simple fix--unpugged two fittings in the back of oven plugged in the new element and it was done.The Best part was that the element burned out on a Sunday and I ordered the part that day and it shipped on Monday and received part on Wed AM.This is the second time I've had to replace the element and by ordering through Part Select I saved $24.00 versus buying it from an appliance store.

Don Samuelson

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!

Easiest repair ever.

#1 - Turn off power (or you will get electricutued).
#2 - Unscrew back of heating elements
#3 - Disconnect wires (may need pliers)
#4 - Attach new heating element
#5 - Put in screws

Everything took 15 mintes max.

Seems every 5 years this bake element totally disintegrates, so we,re experienced! Pull the stove out and remove the back, remove the 2 screws that hold the element(now in 5 pieces), diconnect and discard. Place new element in and connect, replace the 2 screws holding the element in place. Replace stove back. Easy

Turned off all power to range.
Removed two Philip head screws
Gentle pulled unit Element forward
Removed two push on connectors
(Do not let wires fall back into oven holes)

Reversed the process.

removed the old element by taking out two screws then removed the two wires. pulled out the old element , put the new one in . connected the wires and screwed it in. Done.