PGS3759BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

I removed the floor of the oven (one screw) and the heat dispersal shield (one wing nut). Then I detached the old igniter using a socket set. I had to remove the bottom drawer to unplug the ignitor and plug in the new one. Then I reassembled. Total piece of cake and I have no experience whatsoever.

The oven was inconsistanty lighting and I could not predict when it would. After reading some repair reviews I determined that the problem was most likely the igniter. I purchased one from your site and it arrived the next day. Awsome! Had to take out six screws to get to the wiring and removed the igniter. The wiring was a simple plug. Replaced the igniter in about 20 minutes and the oven has been working flawless every since. THANKS!

First I removed the bottom plate in the oven. The ignitor was located at the rear of the burner and I removed to screws and it was loose except for the two wires. Next I removed the bottom tray from the stove. Two screws held the metal guard in place at the rear of the stove. After removing the plate, I determined which wires belonged to the ignitor, unplugged them at the coupling and pulled the wires out through the bottom of the oven. Replacing the ignitor was simply to reverse the proceedure. PartSelect got the part right out to me, installing the new part was a breeze, and my wife calls me her "hero." This site was a real help and saved me a service/repair bill. Thanks!
Fred

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Simple process. Pull the unit out approximately 6 inches. Remove 2 phillips head screws on the left side panel which is about 3 inches wide and runs from the top to the bottom of the unit. No need to remove the panel on the right. Two hex head screws hold each hinge in and are visible once the oven door is removed by opening the door about 20 degrees and lifting it off the hinges. Once the door is off, simply remove the two hex head/self tapping screws holding each hinge in place and remove the hinges from the rear of the front of the oven. Reverse the process to install the new hinges. Do not over tighten but remember they are self tapping and need just a bit of tightening until the hings feels solid. Replace the door by sliding it over the hinges and you're done.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

Open oven door remove trays.. remove floor of oven...remove single screw holding heat shield... unscrew two srews holding ignitor and unclip plastic...done..reverse to install

Remove two screws back panel and remove sensor two screws inside top oven.

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.

This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!

i ordered the part, it came in speedy quick,and it was very easy to install i saved $200 bucks, and my mom was the happiest person in the world. thank you.

First I tried oven ignitor. Did not cure the problem. Then ordered short sensor and it cured the problem. Pull range out & unplug unit.From inside unit remove two screws holding short sensor in &pull out from inside. Unhook sensor. Slide in new sensor& secure with two screws. Had to remove two screws on back of oven to plug in sensor to existing plug. Very simple job.

We ordered the replacement igniter and basically was very easy to replace. We ended up spending $50 for the part as opposed to spending $261.00 that Sears was going to charge.

Removed oven bottom were you see the light glowing from then unscrewed igniter unpluged then took it out and put in new one went well i would do it again works great

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.