MER5770AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

We moved into a house with seemingly newer looking appliances. After the dishwasher broke and destroyed our floor, we found out that they were all twelve years old. Amazing the condition they were in after all that time.

The oven was the next thing to break. The hinge snapped, and while we could still use the oven, it allowed hot air to seep out.

So I checked online and lo and behold, I found a hinge for under $20. Wow. Much cheaper than a new range.

The most amazing thing was that I purchased it on a Friday afternoon, and it showed up on Saturday, so we could do the repair over the weekend. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with that kind of service.

We had to take off the side panel which was a pain, but all in all, it was 7-8 screws and swapping the hinge was easy. One of the screws did not want to go back in, so I had to find a replacement, but other than that, it was a pretty easy repair.

Thanks!

oven had to completely come out cause two sheet metal side panels had to be removed to get to hinge.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.

Remove 6 screws fastening element to top of oven. Remove most of the screws from the back and pull away from oven. Use pliers and pull wires off of element connectors.Remove 2 screws fastening element to rear of oven. Install new element with fastening screws. Re-Install wires and fasten back of oven. Re-install the six screws to fasten element to top of oven.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.

Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.

the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!