MER5752ACS Maytag Range - Instructions

First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.

Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from female parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!

the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!

after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

Unscrewed two Phillips screws holding the element in the back of the oven, pulled out the element and the leads, disconnected the wires, removed element from oven and reversed the process to install new one. One most important and critical maneuver - the element is connected to the hot wire on the left side and the switch shuts off the element by disconnecting electrical flow to the neutral side of the power so its not enough to just have the oven turned off - makes one heck of a spark when the wire touches the stove panel when you pull the wire through the hole (220 at 60 amps).

Looked at parts blow-up, watched a You-Tube video,

Had to remove 4 small rusty screws and a sort of guard made of metal. With power off, I had no light to see way in the back of the oven. Suggest use of a head-lamp.
Also, it would have been very helpful if when the part arrived, it was noted somewhere that a smell and “smoking” from the part is very normal. This would have saved me a tremendous amount of stress and more days without the broiler trying to figure out if I did something wrong, if the part was bad or other. Sounds so simple, but BOY, that would have been SO helpful

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!