MES5552BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed old element, and easily popped in the new one.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

I simply pulled out the old coils and plugged in the new ones. I saved the little pieces that accompanied each coil, because I didn't know what they were used for.

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

We contacted Parts Select for the JennAir factory Trim Kit. When we recieved it we found that the brackets used for the trim kit held the trim pice out with still about a 3/8 inch gap. The supplied brackets were about 3/4-7/8 in depth. So I built a jig from a 1ftx 2inx6in board, placed a 3/8 in square stock of steel, sliped the bracket under the steel and secured the steel to the board with 3/4 inch electr4ical staples. I then secured the bracket to the board using two wood screws. By this time the bracket was securily fastened around the 3/8 steel and to the board. I then took a hammer and beat the bracket until it was formed around the steel and the bracket had a new depth of 3/ inch. I then mesured the holes and center punched them in their original relative positions, drilled new 1/8 inch holes, and installed the new repaired brakets to the JennAir range. This all worked very well, though I will say it is imperitive that youmark the new screw holes very acuratly and use a center punch before drilling.

used the supplied parts...very easy. The parts were exact replacements.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.