MES5552BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

I pulled off the oven door, took out about 7 screws, removed part, cleaned everything, replaced part, all done. very easy.... wife's happy......

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

New ones fit perfectly, and looks beautiful!

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!

1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP,
PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT
OFF)
2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE
DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A
TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS.
3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE
PERIMETER OF THE DOOR..
4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND
BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM
THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE
FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL.
5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER
AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO
ATTACHING BRACKETS.
6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM
THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW
HANDLE.
7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED
8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY
9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER.
( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR
GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

First be sure to unplug stove or turn off from breaker switch. I Removed racks from oven . Using screwdriver I loosened the back plate in the oven that held the wires connected to heating element , being careful not to let wires fall through holes . Gently pull element tip apart from wire. Snap end of new element to wires, screw plates back to tighten
Turn oven on and check to assure heating properly. Very simple

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.