MER6741BAB Maytag Range - Instructions

watched how to video so was prepared for a standard install. removed screws and coverplate...disconnected wires...threaded new element thru coverplate...reconnected wires...reinstalled coverplate with screws. disconnecting and reconnecting wires took some thought and patience, but wasn't rocket science.

Watched a utube video on replacing element on my model range. Found my Phillips screwdriver. An electric drill would have been a bonus but not necessary. Pulled out range, pulled out plug, removed 1 screw from the lower back cover, disconnected the 2 wires, went to the front and removed oven door and racks, unscrewed 2 screws holding the element. Put new element in and reverse dprocess. Test oven. It worked!!

First I unplugged the range from the wall outlet power source...VERY IMPORTANT!!! Then I unscrewed the 2 mounts in the back of the range that hold the heating element in place. I removed the old and installed the new one and reattached the 2 new mounts with the original screws and plugged the range back into the wall outlet. Other than the small and dark work space inside the small oven, it was super easy to do and probably saved us $175!

Hiring a repair man was going to be expensive, and I saw the part was cheap and others had said this was an easy job to do. I figured I'd give it a shot even though I have very little experience repairing things and there was no help coming from my husband. I followed the instruction of others, unscrewing two screws and pulling the broken element out. The metal that capped the ends of the broken piece needed to be removed. One came off easily. The other took a bit of wiggling to get off. A mistake I made was, by accident, one of the wires coming from behind the stove got pushed back through the hole in the oven wall.. I needed to fish it out with tweezers, but thankfully, that was easily retrieved. Once I put the caps on the new piece, I had some trouble reaching the plate to screw it back into place. I removed the oven door, which helped a lot, but then found it a little tricky to get the oven door back on. Despite the little set backs, I still did it myself in around 15 minutes. I'm delighted to have my oven back without paying a fortune!

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Took the element out & cleaned the oven & put the new element in. Easy as pie.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

My daughter repaired it without any problems.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

Looked at parts blow-up, watched a You-Tube video,

Had to remove 4 small rusty screws and a sort of guard made of metal. With power off, I had no light to see way in the back of the oven. Suggest use of a head-lamp.
Also, it would have been very helpful if when the part arrived, it was noted somewhere that a smell and “smoking” from the part is very normal. This would have saved me a tremendous amount of stress and more days without the broiler trying to figure out if I did something wrong, if the part was bad or other. Sounds so simple, but BOY, that would have been SO helpful

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Unscrewed the old element. Screwed in the new element.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.