MER6600FB3 Maytag Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lydia from SAN ANTONIO, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10807828
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Had lost one of the drawer glide
Just attached the glide to the drawer. It just popped in. No problem.
took about 5 minutes.
took about 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Judith from SALEM, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10200660, WPW10031790
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced screw
By hand screwdriver
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- Customer:
- Rosalind from APOLLO, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the oven temperature was not working right. I installed a new oven sensor. Works get now
Watch the video...
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- Customer:
- Paul from HARMONY, MN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
temp level uneven
after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy
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- Customer:
- michael from mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W11230488
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
chemical etching of black painted finish on drawer front panel
took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!
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- Customer:
- Ralph from MARION, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner didn’t work right
Replaced switch. Works right now.
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- Customer:
- bruce from PORTLAND, OR
- Parts Used:
- W11171119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
surface element not working
Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.
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cooktop on the rt side would just keep getting hot
Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11171119
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Electric burner element not working
Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair
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- Customer:
- Michael from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10434452
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dual element control switches were no longer regulating the burners properly (either on or off, no in-between)
1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
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- Customer:
- bobby from HERSCHER, IL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
range would not heat right
very easy watched the howto you gave
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- Customer:
- DAVID from SAN ANGELO, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10434452
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Front dual burner would stay on.
First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.
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- Customer:
- Christy from OROFINO, ID
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
I decided it was the switch that was bad as it would not turn on or anything.
After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.
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- Customer:
- Lee from GROVE CITY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP3149400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
bunner was not shuting off automaticly
I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.
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- Customer:
- Ruth from WAXAHACHIE, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11047722
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
old coils burned in two pieces.
Had an electrician to do the job for me.
Turn off 220 voltage, unplug and remove clips. replace it with new part. Check part before replacing the top of range, if it works, the electricity can be turned back on. Repair done.
Turn off 220 voltage, unplug and remove clips. replace it with new part. Check part before replacing the top of range, if it works, the electricity can be turned back on. Repair done.
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