MER5730AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Pulled oven out unplugged the unit unplugged broiler unscrewed broiler from inside repeated the process backwards turned oven back on

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

We don' t ever do repairs on appliances. And guidelines say replace, don't repair 10 yr old appliances. But a new unit looked around $1,000.
What could we do?

I found screw holes on a metal strip across the top edge of the oven door. Searched the internet for someone with parts. I selected PartSelect because you have every replacement part for my 10 yr unit. Found the plastic oven door vent, range top knobs to match my unit and oven shelves. I ordered ( <$100) with no problems and parts arrived within 48 hrs.

My husband Paul opened the oven door at the angle shown in user guide. He lifted out the oven door, then placed the door on kitchen counter. Paul took out 4 screws on the oven door top edge with a Phillips head screwdriver. He took out obvious screws, removed stove door handle, then was able to remove the yellowed plastic oven vent.

He slid the white replacement vent on the door,
replaced door handle and white metal strip with 4 screws. Replaced oven racks. Lifted door into oven hinges then closed oven door.

I pulled off four yellowed plastic control knobs and pushed the four new ones in place. Stove looked new and worked properly. We celebrated.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.