CRE9700ADE Maytag Range - Instructions

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Everything was straightforward other than the tabs that the screws go through before going into the back of the oven were the wrong size and the predrilled holes were not in the right location. Had to trim the metal tabs and redrill the screw holes.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

removed the old element by taking out two screws then removed the two wires. pulled out the old element , put the new one in . connected the wires and screwed it in. Done.

Seems every 5 years this bake element totally disintegrates, so we,re experienced! Pull the stove out and remove the back, remove the 2 screws that hold the element(now in 5 pieces), diconnect and discard. Place new element in and connect, replace the 2 screws holding the element in place. Replace stove back. Easy

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!

Easiest repair ever.

#1 - Turn off power (or you will get electricutued).
#2 - Unscrew back of heating elements
#3 - Disconnect wires (may need pliers)
#4 - Attach new heating element
#5 - Put in screws

Everything took 15 mintes max.

Turned off all power to range.
Removed two Philip head screws
Gentle pulled unit Element forward
Removed two push on connectors
(Do not let wires fall back into oven holes)

Reversed the process.

Very simple fix--unpugged two fittings in the back of oven plugged in the new element and it was done.The Best part was that the element burned out on a Sunday and I ordered the part that day and it shipped on Monday and received part on Wed AM.This is the second time I've had to replace the element and by ordering through Part Select I saved $24.00 versus buying it from an appliance store.

Don Samuelson

POWER OFF! Unplugged oven from wall.

(Note: I found it easier to disconnect the wires from the element by removing the rear cover. Fumbling around inside the oven was getting me nowhere.)

Removed rear cover.
Disconnected old element.
Unscrewed the old element from inside the oven, removed, and installed the new element. Screwed the new element in place.
Reconnected wires in back, installed the back cover.
Connected power.
Tested. Good as new.

Ordered element and recieved in two days(yea). Removed back cover from unit. Removed two wire slide on wire clips. Then went inside oven cavity and removed two screws holding element intact. The element slid out. Installed element, re-installed two screws to hold element intact. Attached wire clips back on to element, re-attached back cover. Plugged unit back in and it worked perfectly. Eazy-peezy lemon squeezy.

John
Johnny on the Spot Home Repairs
Fishers, Indiana 317-997-3600

Unplugged the range. Took our the oven shelves. Unscrewed the bars holding the broken bake element to the back of the oven wall. Gently pulled out the wiring to which the bake element is attached. Slipped the ends of the broken bake element off the ending on the wiring. Then slipped the ends of the new bake element over the ends on the wiring. Then pushed the wiring with attached bake element back into their position behind the oven wall and attached the bars holding the bake element to the back of the oven wall. This is really easy because it is exactly like the on-line video, for I am a 75 year old female with little technical experience.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.