MGR4452ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

My husband simply twisted out the old burner with a pliers and attach the new burner. Simple and easy....

I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!

Remove rear sheet metal cover. Disconnect the temp sensor wiring connector (on the left side as viewed from front).

Open oven, take out the 2 screws attaching sensor and remove. Reverse for installation.

Included wiring adapters are not needed for this model oven.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

Husband did repair. He removed the
the ignitor. Was a little difficult to remove. I couldn't tell you what he did and in what order.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Removed the drawer from under the stove then unscrewed the access panel in the back (two phillips head screws). Rather than take it off altogether I just swung it to one side.

The ignitor electrical connector required two hands to disconnect and it was a bit of a reach but came apart easily enough once I got hold of it.

Removed the racks and bottom from the oven. the bottom is held in by two pins in the back that you just slide toward the front then lift it out. I did not bother to remove the oven door, but some people might.

Then removed the two hex head screws holding the ignitor on and pulled the connector out of the hole leading to the bottom.

Installation is the reverse of removal The electrical connector was reluctant to back down the hole, but went with a little wiggling and pulling from underneath. Once you get it back down there the connector is keyed, so you can't get it wrong.

Piece of cake, really.

Total repair time: about 30 minutes, including the mandatory halfway beer break.

First I did was to google the problem I have. There several video how to solve the problem. It show me different ways to solve my problem. I just follow the instructions. Thank to google without it, I am lost. I may add, that google is a big saver for me.

Unplugged two connectors and plugged into new burner. Couldn't have been easier! Also, I was so pleased that it matched the other three burners exactly!

I followed the video and it was incredibly easy. I shut the breaker off (we live in an apartment, and pulling the plug on the stove wasn't possible). I lifter out the old burner (the gasket underneath was corroded, and I just threw it out, as the newer burners are self-sealing); removed both the igniter wire and the ground wire (I needed a pliers to tug the igniter wire off); attached the new burner; replaced the burner; turned on the power; and voila!

USED CHANNELOCK PLIERS TO ROTATE BURNER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PULLED OFF THE CONNECTORS, APPLIED RUST TREATMENT TO THE REPLACEMENT PART, WHICH HAD ITSELF STARTED TO CORRODE. SPADE LUGS ON THE OLD PART HAD A SPADE ADAPTER, BUT THE CONNECTION SEEMED TO WORK REGARDLESS OF THE MISS-MATCH. PART WAS REPLACED, TURNING THE BURNER CLOCK-WISE. VERY QUICK AND EASY REPAIR.

Removed the oven door an removed some screws. After that it was pretty much self explanatory from there. Real simple project !

Pulled the drawer and removed the oven door by pulling it upward. Then removed the two hex head screws which loosened the old hinge and pulled it down out of the side of the oven box. Replaced the new hinge in the position of the old one and installed the two hex head screws. I replaced the oven door and that was when I realized the part was wrong. The parts description in the view on the website was one number off and I replaced the broken hinge and ordered from another site the right number. That hinge works.

1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.