ACR4503SFB2 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

switched out latch asy,rear

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

My oven was assembled at the factory with half a hinge in left side ( no giant spring assembly) and in 15 months the right side hinge twisted and collapsed from bearing all the weight. First I thought I was only dealing with one bad hinge, and took the screws out of one side of door only and replaced hinge and was done in five minutes. Watched YouTube videos which were great and did the repair . Then I noticed the other hinge had no tension on it and did a complete disassembly of door and compared hinges and discovered the other shoddy assembly. I recommend you try to replace one hinge at a time. Take out screws on one side and finagle hinge into place. I did not do this and it took a long time. Rated repair difficulty due to several parts of oven door need to be aligned correctly to get the screws back in. Getting one side aligned caused the other side to become mis-aligned. Not rocket science but requires a lot of patience as you will redo it many times. I screwed the new hinges/steel channels they sit in into the inner door to help reduce the number of moving parts. Then aligned and secured door parts. I cut a 6” piece of straight wire from a coat hanger and stuck it through the screw holes to line them up. Worked very well, and after door was screwed together then I finally screwed the hinges to the outer door.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

1) Unplug stove.
2) Remove back cover of the stove held in place by 8 screws (4 short ones for the upper holes and 4 longer ones for the lower holes.).
3) Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing to expose
the switch mounting screws (2 screws).
4) Remove the screws.
5) Go to the rear of the stove and extract the defective switch.
6) You will see 2 plastic plugs going into/onto the switch. Remove the
plugs. MAKE SURE YOU ARE UNPLUGGED FROM THE
Wall OUTLET!! A small flat blade may be needed to separate the
plugs from switch.
7) Attach the plugs to the new switch (there is only one way to do it.
you wont get them confused and put on wrong.
8) Put the new switch where the defective one was.
9) Come to the front of the stove and put your two screws in and
replace the knob.
10) Replace the back cover,
11) Plug in and test burner.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.