ACR4503SFB4 Maytag Range - Instructions

Tried to do it myself and broke the left trim piece. Use two people!

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

1. Disconnected power from my oven.
2. Removed several screws that held the control block
3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch
4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required)
5. Put control block back

Overall - very easy

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

switched out latch asy,rear

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

My oven was assembled at the factory with half a hinge in left side ( no giant spring assembly) and in 15 months the right side hinge twisted and collapsed from bearing all the weight. First I thought I was only dealing with one bad hinge, and took the screws out of one side of door only and replaced hinge and was done in five minutes. Watched YouTube videos which were great and did the repair . Then I noticed the other hinge had no tension on it and did a complete disassembly of door and compared hinges and discovered the other shoddy assembly. I recommend you try to replace one hinge at a time. Take out screws on one side and finagle hinge into place. I did not do this and it took a long time. Rated repair difficulty due to several parts of oven door need to be aligned correctly to get the screws back in. Getting one side aligned caused the other side to become mis-aligned. Not rocket science but requires a lot of patience as you will redo it many times. I screwed the new hinges/steel channels they sit in into the inner door to help reduce the number of moving parts. Then aligned and secured door parts. I cut a 6” piece of straight wire from a coat hanger and stuck it through the screw holes to line them up. Worked very well, and after door was screwed together then I finally screwed the hinges to the outer door.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

Ordered a new switch and replaced the old one with it.