ACR4303MFS4 Maytag Range - Instructions

Unpluged range for safety (power earlier removed by circuit breaker turnoff).
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

turner off circuit breakers for range, i rolled the range out from between counter tops so i could see the burner sw. using a flash light read all the numbers on the switch to my wife who wrote then down, knowing what the switch looked like i could find could find correct instruction video on parts select & check the switch numbers & ordered it. replacing- made myself a drawing of the wiring connections, replacing switch-power off, unscrewed mounting bracket, removed switch, removed ONE WIRE AT A TIME & CONNECTED IT TO SAME TERMINAL ON THE NEW SWITCH, remounted the switch & turner on circuit breakers

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Replaced switch. Works right now.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

take off back panel, simply unplug the old switch and plug in the new one. Simple

By hand screwdriver

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

Remove old receptacle and connected and replace new one. Burner now works perfectly again.

Problem I had was finding the right ones to fit the stove top. Burner pans that tell you will fit most stoves, do not. After I had paid over $20.00 for some that did not fit, I got on the internet, found you, ordered the replacement parts and had them within a few days. Put them in and there you go. A perfectly happy me and a nice looking stove again.