YACR4303MFS4 Maytag Range - Instructions

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

1) Unplug stove.
2) Remove back cover of the stove held in place by 8 screws (4 short ones for the upper holes and 4 longer ones for the lower holes.).
3) Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing to expose
the switch mounting screws (2 screws).
4) Remove the screws.
5) Go to the rear of the stove and extract the defective switch.
6) You will see 2 plastic plugs going into/onto the switch. Remove the
plugs. MAKE SURE YOU ARE UNPLUGGED FROM THE
Wall OUTLET!! A small flat blade may be needed to separate the
plugs from switch.
7) Attach the plugs to the new switch (there is only one way to do it.
you wont get them confused and put on wrong.
8) Put the new switch where the defective one was.
9) Come to the front of the stove and put your two screws in and
replace the knob.
10) Replace the back cover,
11) Plug in and test burner.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

Lift and remove heat elements
Lift and remove Drip bowls

Replace Drip bowls and heat elements

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Very easy remove the burner and instill the drip bowls

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Putting the drawer glides on was easy. My range drawer did not have any glides on so my drawer would fall out. The drawer glides popped right on the drawer. The glides for the track were easy to screw into the body of the range. I had to bend the tracks up a little on each side with a pair of pliers. One glide would go onto the track and the other one would go on top of the track. After bending them a little I was able to push them onto the track.at the same time.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

Unscrewed the switches and let the switch hang while replacing one wire at a time. Followed instructions on wire replacement. Exact parts, only shaft on 6" switch was too long -- okay, because it is designed to break off a piece on end of shaft, then the knob fit. Everything was perfect.