38DM-4CXW Maytag Range - Instructions

pulled out old burner and pushed in new burner.
No tools needed.

Since it was a plug-in burner, only needed to pull it out and put the other one in.

Another thing I would like to say is that I was very well pleased with the service from partselect.com. I was unable to find the burners in my area.
Was very helpful in selecting the part and was very efficient in sending it.

Simply removed new burner from box and plugged it in! Very pleased with 3 day speedy delivery. Confident my 32 year old cooktop will continue to give many more years of service with any parts needed from PartSelect.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I ordered the 2 burners that were not working. When I got the burners, I discovered that one of the burners was still working and the wiring under that on had burned out. So I ordered the little box kit and repaired it. I only needed to strip wires and twist together and replace the small box. Now all are working and I am cooking with all four burners again. All for about $50.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

Pug it in! That's it!

removed old and installed new

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

used drill to remove old screw

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Searched the internet for the replacement part, placed the order and then disconnected the old one and inserted the new burner prongs into the socket. Worked perfectly!!!

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

new drip bowl fit perfectly and was a snap to install.