MER6769BAQ Maytag Range - Instructions

FOLLOWED INSTRUCTIONS AND READ THE HINTS FROM OTHER CONSUMERS. IT WAS VERY EASY.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First I unplugged the range from the wall outlet power source...VERY IMPORTANT!!! Then I unscrewed the 2 mounts in the back of the range that hold the heating element in place. I removed the old and installed the new one and reattached the 2 new mounts with the original screws and plugged the range back into the wall outlet. Other than the small and dark work space inside the small oven, it was super easy to do and probably saved us $175!

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

replacing this was very easy and simple. I removed the 2 screws holding the support bracket then the 2 screws in back of the elemant ,pull clips off the element then installed it back like it was .....very simple...

Removed door, dissasembled door cleaned all broken glass, installed new glass, re-assembled door and put door back on oven.

Very simple project.

Hiring a repair man was going to be expensive, and I saw the part was cheap and others had said this was an easy job to do. I figured I'd give it a shot even though I have very little experience repairing things and there was no help coming from my husband. I followed the instruction of others, unscrewing two screws and pulling the broken element out. The metal that capped the ends of the broken piece needed to be removed. One came off easily. The other took a bit of wiggling to get off. A mistake I made was, by accident, one of the wires coming from behind the stove got pushed back through the hole in the oven wall.. I needed to fish it out with tweezers, but thankfully, that was easily retrieved. Once I put the caps on the new piece, I had some trouble reaching the plate to screw it back into place. I removed the oven door, which helped a lot, but then found it a little tricky to get the oven door back on. Despite the little set backs, I still did it myself in around 15 minutes. I'm delighted to have my oven back without paying a fortune!

watched how to video so was prepared for a standard install. removed screws and coverplate...disconnected wires...threaded new element thru coverplate...reconnected wires...reinstalled coverplate with screws. disconnecting and reconnecting wires took some thought and patience, but wasn't rocket science.

Turned off circuit breaker. Unscrewed old element holders from inside broiler - 4 screws. Pulled old element out to expose slip on wire connection at end. R&R with the new one. Screwed assembly back in. Turned on CB and tested. Good to go.

Unscrewed the old element. Screwed in the new element.

Took the element out & cleaned the oven & put the new element in. Easy as pie.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.