38AA-4CW Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the old broken burner and slid the burner prongs into place. Very EASY to replace!

After finding the correct Y-frame, inches and watts in a surface burner, it was easy to just slide in the slots. Tested, and it was perfect. Now it makes all of the other burners look bad. Thanks. Your site was the only one, that I was sure I had the correct part.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

Once oven was removed from wall not to bad

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

I ordered the 2 burners that were not working. When I got the burners, I discovered that one of the burners was still working and the wiring under that on had burned out. So I ordered the little box kit and repaired it. I only needed to strip wires and twist together and replace the small box. Now all are working and I am cooking with all four burners again. All for about $50.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

Pug it in! That's it!

removed old and installed new

We read comments by other DIYers and then looked at the video on YouTube. Our range is old and the screw holding the clamp for the block was too tight to remove so we removed the block from the old clamp and left clamp intact. Turned the circuit breaker off. Cut the existing wires and wired the new block to them. Put the block back into the old clamp, put new surface burner in and good as new. My boyfriend and I did it together but I could have done it myself - it was that simple. Thanks PartSelect for quick delivery and excellent DIY info.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

used drill to remove old screw

The element appeared to have been damaged. I replaced the element with ease. However, I still have the same problem. The oven does not heat up to the set temperature. Information from the part select website is that it is more likely the long oven sensor. I ordered one and will provide the results after I have this sensor replaced with a new one.