CDE8300ACB Maytag Range - Instructions

Replace filter

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.

Fortunate to have the replacement parts available.
Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days.
The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.

My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.

Go Girls, you can do it!!!!!!

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

First thing
disconnect from electricity
Remove the back cover by unscrewing its fixing screws
Using philips screw driver, To remove the scocket assembly, pull the tow electric wires from the socket, using a fine plier.
Open the oven door and unlock the glass cover and remove it.
Remove the 2 screws fixjing the socket from inside the oven.
Now the socket is ready to be disassembled by just pushing the clips with tow fingers.
Replace the socket and do same steps in reverse way.
insert the lamp, and the glass cover, connect the electricity and you are done.

Move stove out from wall. Unplug from power. Removed four screws from the left side of the back (the side the light socket is on. Reach in and unplug the two wires on the back of the bulb socket assembly. Inside the oven, remove the bulb cover and the two screws holding the socket assembly. Remove assembly. Install bulb in new assembly, reattach the assembly to the oven back, reinstall the bulb cover. On the back of the stove, replug the two wires and replace the screws on the stove's back cover. Replug the unit to power and move back into position.
Sounds harder than it is. The worst part is reaching inside the oven to get at those bits.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete