GA3177WUV Maytag Range - Instructions

removed 2 screws and unpluged ingiter plug ed new igniter in replaced screws and worked fine

using the diagram shown on line Looked up the ignition module and ordered it by phone. Received it the next day and installed it within the hour. Previously I had called the repairman and he said it would be a couple of weeks before he could look at it and a service call was $75 plus parts..I fixed it for the cost of the module $34. I am very satisfied.

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.

I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!

New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

Unscrew the burners an install new ones! Anyone could do this.

I just twist the burner, pulled it out, disconect the two wires. Reconect the wires to the new burner and placed back .

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Very easy. I disconnected the original burner with one turn as well as the two wire connections for the electronic igniter. I then connected the wires to the same positions on the new burner and placed the new burner in place with one half turn to match the indented openings to secure the burner tightly in place.

Went well

Unplugged two connectors and plugged into new burner. Couldn't have been easier! Also, I was so pleased that it matched the other three burners exactly!

I followed the video and it was incredibly easy. I shut the breaker off (we live in an apartment, and pulling the plug on the stove wasn't possible). I lifter out the old burner (the gasket underneath was corroded, and I just threw it out, as the newer burners are self-sealing); removed both the igniter wire and the ground wire (I needed a pliers to tug the igniter wire off); attached the new burner; replaced the burner; turned on the power; and voila!

USED CHANNELOCK PLIERS TO ROTATE BURNER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PULLED OFF THE CONNECTORS, APPLIED RUST TREATMENT TO THE REPLACEMENT PART, WHICH HAD ITSELF STARTED TO CORRODE. SPADE LUGS ON THE OLD PART HAD A SPADE ADAPTER, BUT THE CONNECTION SEEMED TO WORK REGARDLESS OF THE MISS-MATCH. PART WAS REPLACED, TURNING THE BURNER CLOCK-WISE. VERY QUICK AND EASY REPAIR.