MGR5880BDS Maytag Range - Instructions

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.

Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.

This was very easy and pretty fast to do and its working great...all for $40 bucks ! you can do this...trust me!

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

The ignitor heated up and the broiler worked but not the bake mode. Repaired per instructions

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

Ordered new single outlet water valve, received in less than two days. Removed old one, and the repair pretty much feel in place. Instructions were there as a backup. ........ Just curious if the connection from the water source to the valve outlet connection could b a quick connect just the like the water line going directly to the ice maker. Gregg in PA.

Removed all screws from back panel of stove, disconnected all electrical, shut off gas. Removed valve and replaced with new. Put all back together. Turned on gas and checked for leaks. Success!!

I first removed the screws inside the oven,let the tube that the flames come out of hang down,removed the screws from the igniter. Then I took the cover off the back of the stove and unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. I put all screws back and put every thing back in place and the oven has been heating up every since. Thank you parts select. My husband is a otr trucker and won't be home until the 20th of this month. One less item on his "honey do list".

Pulled the drawer and removed the oven door by pulling it upward. Then removed the two hex head screws which loosened the old hinge and pulled it down out of the side of the oven box. Replaced the new hinge in the position of the old one and installed the two hex head screws. I replaced the oven door and that was when I realized the part was wrong. The parts description in the view on the website was one number off and I replaced the broken hinge and ordered from another site the right number. That hinge works.

Firmly grasp burner turn counter clockwise while lifting. Photograph the location of the wires. Remove with a Phillips head screwdriver. The igniter will lift and turn one quarter turn then pull through bottom. Reverse the steps to install the new igniter. Test knew igniter. Put tools away

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.