6551WRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

You guys had a installation video which help greatly. I did run into a couple issues. Firstly, it didn't see a plug for the oven so I shut the power down from the panel. Lastly, disconnecting the old bake element from the electric insert at the ends was a bit challenging. The element and the inserts looks as if it was one piece but eventually it pulled apart. Installing the new piece was very easy. You want to consider adding additional legs under the bake element closet the area where the element connect to the oven inserts. When my old element broke and failed, the live piece can in contact with the floor of the oven causing a flash. It was a bit scary.

Thank you very much for your expeditious shipment and your follow up. Great job!

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

This is the second time PartSelect came through for me. If it hadn't been for you guys, I'd have had to buy a new Jenn-Air cooktop, because ours is nearly 30 years old. About two years ago, I bought a new two-burner cartridge, which installed without tools in about one minute. But a few weeks ago, we lost the burner in the other cartridge. I emailed PartSelect, and even though I gave them my obsolete model number, a helpful service rep managed to find me the part number of the correct burner, so I was able to place my order. Once the part arrived, there was no problem replacing the burner. This is a simple operation we've performed many times when we need to remove the burner for cleaning.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Unplugged the stove. I removed the old element by removing the two screws holding it in, and plugged the stove back in. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days. Unpluged the stove again, connected the new element, and re-attached it via the two screws. Plugged it back in, and it worked great. Fantastic price and quick delivery. Only took about 5 minutes to fix, and I saved at least $100 by not having to call a service man.

Plugged in the new burner, which we received in one day.We were delighted with the quick service

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I removed the screws holding the bezel, removed the control panel frame, unhooked the four wires from the timer, and removed the timer. I cut the glue holding the circuit board into the frame and removed the circuit board. I unsoldered the faulty encoder switch, dissassembled the switch, determined the correct specifications for the switch, and ordered the nearest equivalent from an electronics supplier. I modified the new encoder to accept the shaft from the old encoder and I re-drilled the circuit board to fit the new encoder. I then soldered and wired the encoder, reversing the wires to correct the direction of rotation. I then reinstalled everything and added the knob purchased from partselect.com. Now it works. Tough repair - not for the faint of heart or those of average skill. But for the record, installing the knob was of course child's play and took only a moment.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job

After I removed the piece of metal separating the two wires, I inserted the unit with no problem.