2543 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

Fist I removed the screws on the front-sides of the oven. Then I turned off the gas, by adjusting the in-line valve. I then unscrewed the gas fitting going into the bottom of the oven. I pulled the oven out, being careful not to put too much pull on the electrical cord. I put a bench in front of the oven and set it down.
I then removed the oven racks, and the plate in the bottom. Bottom element is bake, top element is broil. I unscrewed the igniter, then disconnected its plastic wire connector on the back of the oven, then pushed and pulled the connector into the oven and out the door.
Then I ordered my part for $30 less than Sears from PartSelect, and it got here STUPID FAST. I hooked it up and put everything back together, no big deal, BOOM - Cornbread!

I am a novice at this, so before I did anything I researched this site and made sure to read the installation directions that came with the part.

First I removed the oven racks, the bottom cover (one screw in front and two back latches by moving them towards me) and the fire cover underneath that. Next I disconnected the electrical plug in the back.
Then I removed the defective part by unscrewing 2 back panel screws and 1 on the side of the igniter itself. Now, in connecting the new igniter I cut the connector off of the old one and wire nut connected it to the new one. I did check the connectors and cleaned them by simply plugging/ unplugging them a few times.
Next, The trickiest thing about installing the new igniter was pushing the wires all the way to the back of the oven. I took care and time in this to insure that the connection was well insulated from the heat and then plugged the hole with the insulation material supplied. Next I recconected the fire cover and turned it on. Worked great! Put everything back together, plugged it in and Voila! Like new.

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

My oven would no longer ignite, and I asked a friend to help me see if we could fix it. We found an appliance repair manual online (www.appliancerepair.net), and it described that the most likely part needing replacement was the ceramic igniter - they do wear out, and my oven was - after all - over 20 yrs old, with never a repair! Then, somehow I found this PartSelect website, and after entering the make and model number, it showed the part, with a drawing, and dimensions - enough for me to be convinced it was the right part. I called and was reassured that if it were not the right part, it would be easy to return / refund. So, I ordered the part, standard shipping .... and to my great surprise, it was delivered the VERY NEXT DAY to my front door! And this was right before Christmas, a very busy time! The oven works like a charm now..... (I also had to clean out some of the gas holes, which can build up residues over time.) This repair cost less than $50, I'm sure if an appliance repair person came out it would have been more like $200 - not worth it for an oven this old. So, I'm happy with PartSelect!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

Removed Old Igniter and installed new one, parts and connector fit fine, no modifications needed.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.