CES3540ACB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Performed repairs just as you directed. Everything went in in without a hitch. All the parts fit well and seem to be working fine. Wife still complains. Maybe I need a new burner coil.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Our Maytag Gemini is about 10 years old. One night the 8" front right element was smoking and had a white hot spot on the burner. I quickly turned it off and after the element cooled I removed it. Since one 8" element was burned out, but the rest of the range and oven worked, I assumed I could get it fixed. Rather than call the service man for $99 for a diagnostic visit, I decided to go to PartSelect and get prices on parts. They had the easiest site to use with part numbers, exploded part drawings, etc. Since I had to replace one burned out element anyway, I ordered the burner and the wiring receptacle. I assumed that was step one. The parts came in about two days. It took me about 20 minutes to put them in with no problems. Very easy. However, the burmer still would not work. I went back to the site and determined the only other part it could be was the infinite switch. The bad element little light on the top control panel was not going out even after I put in new parts. I figured it was shorted out and frozen in the closed position, so I ordered a new one from PrtSelect. It came again in about two days. This part was easy to replace, except it took longer because the entire back of the oven had to be removed. Three pieces of sheet metal had to be removed and two plastic end caps. Sheet metal has sharp edges. Watch out that you do not get cut. A lot of screws got removed and put back. You have to be careful that the three pieces of sheet metal are put back correctly because several edge tabs lap over each other. The infinite switch fixed the problem. Took me about two hours to do the switch replacement, but that counted cleaning the sides of the oven and underneath the oven (Yuch!). Now everything works fine. I suspect that the old wiring receptacle was fine and just the infinite switch and element needed to be replaced. In any case, the wiring receptacle was cheap. In the end, the repair cost me the same $99, but I spent it in parts and not parts plus installation so I was way ahead.

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Disconnect the range from wall outlet. remove 2 screws in the back of the cabinet,remove switch plug. connect back range to outlet to check if it is the switch. make sure the light isn't on. then I order the switch online at PartSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. When I installed the piece, the problem had been solved. I hope this information will be helpful for others.

Disassembled upper unit with Phillips screwdriver. Removed 2 "plug connectors" from element switch. Replaced switch. Plugged both connectors back onto switch. Reassembled the upper portion of the range. Tested and OK

took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type this but i am slow at typing

killed power...removed back of stove...removed switch and replaced it..reinstalled back...powered up

Ordered a front burner but it was not the right size. Ordered a switch after local dealer said I had a bad switch. Ordered a switch from Parts Select and received it the next day. Works good now.

I ordered both the light bulb and the switch that controls it. I had not pulled the stove out because the ones I bought this house from did not level the floor which meant I had to wait on a socket set to arrive in order to be able to pull my stove away from the wall. Once I got the socket set and the stove out I removed the panel on the back. I saw then that my red light bulb had shattered in half forcing the switch to just hang free. Glad I had ordered both parts, removed the old, replaced new with ease... then it was a matter of sliding the panel back in place without the main control panel getting misaligned, few trial and error checks and it went back with ease. New light works! Very easy.. probably less time if your floor is level.. then I had to play with the little legs to get it even again. For now it is ok until the spring where I go to redo the floor and make it all LEVEL! Very easy! Hope it doesn't burn out again but if it does I know what to do! Maytag rep wanted to charge me $100... No thanks!

Turn off power 220v, opened cook top, remove old 8" switch and replace with one of the new switch ps2089438. However, I have another cook top, it is a 6" heating element. Can I use the same switch for 8" and use on a 6" heating element? Since I order 2 new ps2089438 switches. Thank you for your anwser. Kahn lee

Pulled stove out to unplug. Removed screws holding end covers then remove screws on the underside of cover as you face the stove top.Remove knobs.Pull bottom cover forward and up so you can lift it off to see the insides.Remove wires and attach to the new part one at a time. Unscrew old from the front and attach the new one.Put it back together.Done.