3468XVB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I pretty much did the repair the same way the video described it. I first turned off the gas valve and disconnected the power. Then removed the two screws holding in the burner tube and removed it. Then I unplugged the old igniter. The screws were a bit corroded so I gave them a little spray of liquid wrench. They came right out them. After removing them I replaced the igniter plugged it in. Then I put the wire through the hole in the wall of the oven. Replaced the insulation that was included in the kit. Replaced the burner tube on the venture. And reinstalled the screws. It was pretty cut and dry. The glow plug had the burner fired up in 15 seconds.

The burner was leaking a rust colored dirt and shooting flames all over the place. The top came off and I needed channel-locks to get the bottom half out. The wires were hard to get off and I broke one connector off so I soldered the wire on to the new part which fit the stove top perfectly. It still took less than a half hour to replace. Without problems it should take about 5 minutes.

Replaced with a new one.

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.

Unplugged the old temp sensor at the back of the stove. From the inside I removed the 2 retaining screws. I taped a string to the old wire and pulled it through so I could pull the new harness through on the new sensor. When the new sensor arrived I installed it in reverse order. Easy peasy. Works great!!!!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

The ignitor heated up and the broiler worked but not the bake mode. Repaired per instructions

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.

ordered the new igniter kit, it was delivered the NEXT day, followed the instructions, it was a lot easier then my old Tappan oven, took about 15 minutes. Not bad at all, and I am a 58 year old woman.