38FK-6TXW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

slide out upper protective sheet metal protector. it is loose and can contirbute to the element failure from door closing.

remove rear element screws,and upper support screws.
slide out upper element.

do not cut the wires, they contain mating plug to element. use pliers to pull apart the male-female
plug on element wires.

reverse procedure to install, use old extra screws on upper metal protector to prevent loose rubbing on upper element. there are holes for this no drilling required.

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !