38HA-26CX-ON Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.

I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

We at first thought the replacement could be done by just removing 2 screws.
When in fact it was necessary to pull the oven from the cabinet, remove the rear metal shield in order to unplug the element.
The job went rather smoothly at a considerably less cost than if I had contacted a repair service which would have upped the price of the element plus the cost for the service call.

I just removed the lamp retainer plate and glass cover, inserted the new gasket, and screwed everything back in place. Simple as that. I was enormously pleased that the part arrived so quickly -- just in time for me to cook my Thanksgiving turkey and use the self-cleaning feature.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

Turned off oven power.Removed oven heat shield, element support clips and element mounting plate screws. Disconnected three element power wires and ground wire. Removed old element. Reversed removal procedure for new element install. Piece of cake.

Grandson spent 1/2 hour installing unit and 15 minutes of that time was trying to get the very short grounded screw to begin to thread. It was a very small space to work in and it kept falling out. The instructions were a lot to be desired - almost nothing. He went to YouTube and got very explicit instructions. Then he had no problem as to what to do. The unit is working great now.

All went well except for error on instruction sheet.
Ground wire used on earlier Models attached to the ground lug is no longer used?? and should be removed!!! Guess what the ground wire has to be used or the element will not heat up.Soooo someone at the mfg. has no ideal what they are talking about,You have to ground the element or it will not come on.

remove two bracket screws, and remove bracket, the remove two mount screws for element. then remove the element. installed the element in reverse order that it was removed.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Turned off power at panel. Removed 2 Phillips screws holding broiler element support in place. Squirted 2 additional Phillips head screws attaching element to back of stove with WD-40 and removed screws. Slid element out to access electrical connection and used short phillips screwdriver to remove. Reattached electrical connection to new element with short screwdriver (no fun as you are cantilevered into the oven and have to hold the element, the screw and the screwdriver to do this). Slid element into support and screwed support to top of stove cavity to align element. Installed screws holding element onto back wall. Turned on power and ran element long enough to dissipate WD-40 fumes.