CGR1110ADQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions

This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.

i ordered the part, it came in speedy quick,and it was very easy to install i saved $200 bucks, and my mom was the happiest person in the world. thank you.

Replaced gas oven ignitor

I was sure my problem was due to a gas ingiter that was no longer working. I read about others that had the same problem as I did. I ordered the part from Partselect because they had a 30 day no hassle parts return policy.
I removed the oven racks and 4 screws to get to the igniter.
I unpluged the igniter, put the new one in, and replaced the racks. Very simple and easy to do.

I removed the cover protecting the igniter. I pulled the stove away from the wall to get at the connect for the igniter. I loosened the 2 screws which held the igniter.
Took the new igniter ran the wire to the back to the connection and mounted the igniter with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven to make sure it works and it did. Turned off the oven, replace the cover and pushed the stove back in place. No big Deal!
Your web site was very helpful. Thank you so much!

I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.

followed instructions from repair manual.

The repairs was easy,once I found the problem I turned the gas off and unplug the power supply cord. For the oven gas valve I used a 5/8 wrench to take the gas supply line away from the side of the valve inside the over. I used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove the two screw holding the braket down over the valve. For the glow-bar I donnected the power supply plug and used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove two screw holding it in place next to the brun.

After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on.
Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out.
After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem.
After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.

Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.

He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.

seamed easy enough. Found the part and it looked identical, However I could not see the connector in the picture because the logo covered that part of the picture. Had to cut the connector off the old igniter and crimp it on to the new ingniter.

First i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the wire out of the hole and disconected the plug. then plug in the new one, put the two screws back in, and checked it to see if it worked,It worked like a new one! So as my reward my wife baked me cookies!

It took all of 10 mins. Open oven door slightly lift to remove.took out shelves and bottom of oven,lift at back to remove.Two screws hold the Igniter, was able to pull the connector into the oven to change. Oven works great!