3468XRA-X Magic Chef Range - Instructions

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

1st unplug stove opened cover to wireing box with a phillips driver removed old part transfered wires one by one installed new part installed cover & pluged in stove & worked line new.

First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!

I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!

Broken part was already removed, so I used the screw from the broken support and installed the new support. Very simple, easy, and painless.

I found the panel on the innernet, ordered it and when it arrived I removed the old one and replaced it with the new one.

removed drawer from track replaced supports on track and one on the drawer.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.

it was so easy my wife could do it!!!!!!!!

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.

1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.

Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.

This oven was purchased in 1992 . Hardest & time consuming issue was getting the old part out. First unplug unit from outlet. Take off oven door(very easy to do). Take out oven racks & lift out bottom of oven(also simple to do). Pull out storage drawer all the way out & put aside out of your way. Take off burner baffle. This is held on with 1 butterfiy screw. This igniter plugs in the same way a phone slips into the jack. Use a flash light if needed. Where you pulled the storage drawer out from all the way in the back pull out the connection holding the old ignition wires into the oven(this is the phone type part spoke of above). Go back into the oven & un screw the 2 screws that hold in the igniter to the bake burner pipe. Now you can carefully pull out the old igniter since you already unpluged it earlier. Slip connection wires from new igniter in the same hole old was pulled from in back of oven. Screw the 2 screws into the new igniter to hold it to the bake burner pipe. Go back down to the storage draw space & plug into bottem back. Replace storage drawer. Replace burner baffle. Replace bottem of oven making sure to seat it in correctly. Replace door . Remember to connect to electric again & you should be good to go. I would like to now say something about the excellent service received from parts select. They have an excellent user friendly site & I received my part the next day.