6500PRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Unplugged the stove. I removed the old element by removing the two screws holding it in, and plugged the stove back in. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days. Unpluged the stove again, connected the new element, and re-attached it via the two screws. Plugged it back in, and it worked great. Fantastic price and quick delivery. Only took about 5 minutes to fix, and I saved at least $100 by not having to call a service man.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job

Removed the single phillips screw that held each plastic slide guide to the stove, and replaced the part reusing the screws. Was so simple I didn't even have to swear. This was my mother-in-law's stove, and she was so happy to have it repaired she's fed me twice since.

I noticed the drawer on the broiler was sliding crooked and found the plastic slides had broken. Of course I thought it would be a hassle and not worth the time to fix it. I would just "live with it". Boy was I wrong, it was probably the simplest fix ever. It was easy to get the correct parts from PartSelect with their exploded and concise diagram. The parts were ordered and delivered in a couple of days. It took me all of 10 minutes with a screwdriver to make the repairs. Now it is a good as new.

Remove screw securing the broken drawer guide. Placed new drawer support in place and tightened screw. Replaced drawer. All done in less than 5 minutes (and cheaply).

1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.

just pushed new knobs on the d-shape shafts. Perfect oem fit. Just what we needed. Previously tried a set of cheap "universal" knobs that actually melted/deformed from rangetop heat reflected. Live and learn. I will say that for four 2" diameter black plastic knobs, 100 bucks seems crazy steep. But hey. we needed them and we're now back in operation . Thanks to PartsSelect for having them available. Can't operate the stove without control knobs.

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.