CGR1330BDC Magic Chef Range - Instructions

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

part was purchased as spare because when the ignitor goes bad no warning is given it just fails.

I attempted to use the knob: it didn't fit. However, I located original paperwork with the model number on it and then I came back to partselect.

I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .

Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off.
Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

Replaced gas oven ignitor

followed instructions from repair manual.

The repairs was easy,once I found the problem I turned the gas off and unplug the power supply cord. For the oven gas valve I used a 5/8 wrench to take the gas supply line away from the side of the valve inside the over. I used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove the two screw holding the braket down over the valve. For the glow-bar I donnected the power supply plug and used a 1/4 nutdriver to remove two screw holding it in place next to the brun.

He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.

Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.

I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.

We ordered the replacement igniter and basically was very easy to replace. We ended up spending $50 for the part as opposed to spending $261.00 that Sears was going to charge.

Removed oven bottom were you see the light glowing from then unscrewed igniter unpluged then took it out and put in new one went well i would do it again works great