CGR3740BDT Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!

I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

Remove the oven racks. Slide the two catches, located at each rear corner of the oven bottom, toward the front of the oven.

Lift the rear edge of the oven bottom slightly, then slide it back until the front edge of the oven bottom clears the oven front frame. Remove oven bottom from oven.

Pulled storage drawer out to the first stop position. Lift up front of drawer and pull to the second stop position.
Grasp sides and lift up and out.

Under storage area, I removed two screws to remove a steel plate. In the oven, I removed two screws that held on the Oven Igniter. Unplugged the Igniter under the storage area.

Plugged in the new Oven Igniter, replace the two screws that held the Oven Igniter, replace the two screws for the steel plate. Put the storage drawer back, the bottom of the oven back and the racks.

It was easier than I though it would be.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

The repair was easy. Partselect processed my order quickly and my part was delivered sooner than I expected.

Removing the old igniter was simple. I took off the oven door to create easy access to the oven. I then unplugged the connection and removed the screws that held the older igniter in place. Installing the new igniter was almost as easy. I followed the same steps as above, but in reverse. I accidentally dropped one of the screws, so installation probably took 1 minute longer than removal. :)

I'm a very satisfied customer.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) Then I put the new valve in, put the cover back on the refridgerator and was done. total time 15 minutes. My wife says I'm the man.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.