31311SAA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then detached the wire from underneath the oven. We then had to pull out the oven to access the back panel. We unscrewed the back panel and detached the second wire. Then we revearsed the process and installed the new igniter. The whole thing from start to finish took about 35min. This was very easy to do and I am happily baking once again. The whole family is happy about that :)

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

Replaced the ceramic glow ignitor by removeing the two screws holding it to the mounting bracket. Gas and electric were tturned off. Unplugged the ignitor from rear of oven. Installed new switch in the same way and if worked perfect. Part was ordered online for $48. I saved one hundred dollars by doing it myself. My outdoor grill was harder than this.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

A very common problem for ovens not heating up is the oven igniter going bad. Depending on how much you use your oven, they only last about 5 years. It is easy to replace, but getting it off can be a little tricky since the screws are exposed to so much heat. Once you got it off, you can unclip the old one and clip the new one right in. Then bolt it back on, throw in the racks and shelves, and start cooking. I replaced the igniter twice, the temperature sensor once, and the control panel once.

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

remove racks out of the oven. remove very bottom of oven and you will then have access to the ignitor.the part was a little difficult to remove due to the self tapping screws snapping upon removal.drilled them out and installed new ignitor.oven now works fantastic.

unplugged the oven, unplugged the ignitor and removed the two screws

Removed Old Igniter and installed new one, parts and connector fit fine, no modifications needed.

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.